Buying an SLR camera

Both digital and film cameras are similar in the mechanics of capturing light. The major difference that sets them apart is the storage of information. The back of a "film" camera opens to load and unload film. The back must be light tight for accurate exposures. The film is light sensitive and when exposed and processed, acts as the storage of information for the image photographed. This is the kind of camera you need to get for this class.

The back of a digital camera does not open like a film camera. The image is captured electronically via sensors and viewed via a screen on the back of the camera. This camera will not work for this class because it does not store information on film, but rather on a digital flash card.
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Some students have been asking me about purchasing cameras, what to look for etc. You will be processing B&W film in this class, so you need a camera that can shoot film not a digital camera. It needs to be an SLR or "single lens reflex" camera. This camera has a mirror system behind the lens that pulls up and out of the way when you open the shutter to expose the film to light. This mechanism allows the photographer to see through the lens for composing and focusing. Usually the lenses are removable and usually the camera has manual features for total exposure control. The four manual controls that are important to look for are the f-stops or aperture (opening in the lens), the shutter (in the camera body), focus ring (on the lens), and ISO adjustment (on the body).

 Camera drawing from Art With Ms. Gomez' -Photography I

From my experience, Canon and Nikon have been the preferred cameras because of their optics and professional orientation, but Olympus, Pentax and Minolta, are also recognized quality cameras (usually better priced). With most new cameras you will have LED readouts. Get an SLR with at least a 50mm (normal) manual focusing lens (zooms in the 35-80 range are good). Also make sure that the camera allows both “shutter” and “aperture” manual control (f-stops at ½ stop increments, shutter speeds from 1/500 to Bulb). If you don’t know what this means, ask your sales person.

There are a lot of good deals on used film cameras because so many photographers have switching to digital. Shop around and ask a lot of questions, ask about used cameras as well as new ones. Next pick up each of your possible camera candidates and adjust the f-stops and the shutter speeds. Keep in mind that as you shoot in the manual mode, you want these actions to be fluid and easy. Take a shot; adjust the f-stop 1/2 stop up and then 1/2 stop down. Change your shutter speed and make sure there is a “B” (bulb) setting. For a used camera, open the back of the camera and look for wear and tear (if the back doesn't open and close easily be concerned for light leaks). If there is a big dent anywhere be hesitant, that camera has been dropped! Make sure the meter is working and is reacting to changes in light. Fire the shutter and advance it making sure that it advances smoothly. Do this while the back of the camera is open and look through the place the film would be, do you see a round dot of light coming through the lens opening (with lens cap off)? This will let you know if the lens aperture is synchronized with the shutter. Compare the ease of use for each camera especially the metering system, does the camera tell you what f-stop and shutter speed you are set at in the viewfinder? Then try the focus in the manual mode, see if the camera can focus "macro" and try it out. See how close you can get to something in focus. Then if it has a zoom lens extend it to the most telephoto mode and focus in and out with the manual focus (Can you easily tell when you are in focus?) When comparing the lenses of the different cameras check what the smallest f-stop number and the largest f-stop numbers are (An f-4 lens should cost less than an f-2.8 lens from the same manufacturer, but the f-2.8 would be more desirable if you are shooting in low light conditions). The smaller the f-number, the more light allowed through the lens, which means there is more glass which means more money. Next, how does it fit in your hands, is the viewer bright and easy to look through, and does the camera fit comfortably to your face. Also check to see if the camera has a “hot shoe” or cord attachment for an external flash (not mandatory, but a nice option to have).

If you are still not sure look the camera model up on line and see what consumer groups say about that particular model. Have in mind what you plan to do with your camera after this class, is it just a hobby or are you planning to make it an element of your career? That will help you decide how much money to spend.

Also, get a written guarantee that if the camera cannot be used in a fully manual mode for this class, that the store will refund your money if you return it within one week or so after classes start. That way I can look it over in class. With used cameras make sure that you get a 90-day warranty that the store or seller will refund or replace the camera. A used camera will do you no good if it’s in the repair department for 6 or 8 weeks!

I hope that helps you choose. Don’t worry if you are still confused, we will go over all this information. But you must have a camera to use by the first week of class.

Here are some websites that can help give more info:

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Almost-Any-35mm-Film-Camera
http://blog.epicedits.com/2008/06/20/your-guide-to-buying-old-film-cameras/